從國家人類博物館下午四點，出來打聽去瓜達盧佩的公交車，碰到所以的出租車司機都說遠的不得了，要不就坐他的車直接給送去，要不就拉你到去瓜達盧佩的公交車站，都是要你的錢。幸好有個墨西哥人，聽我們大聽取瓜達盧佩的公交車站，就領著我們到車站，還指點我們坐哪輛車。讓偶們跟他上車。車上又遇到一個會說英語的女人，領著偶們下車，給我們指路，看見那墨西哥天主教的圣地——瓜達盧佩。

        當年西班牙人憑著火槍火炮，帶著天花鼠疫，征服了阿茲特克帝國。當年不過千把來人的西班牙殖民者要統(tǒng)治這么多有信仰的阿茲特克人也不是件容易的事情。所以西班牙人在美洲新大陸滅人家神廟的時候大修天主教堂，讓上帝來幫助他們歸順這些阿茲特克人。對不肯毀廟改奉天主教的阿茲特克人則打開殺戒，頗有點咱留頭不留發(fā)，留發(fā)不留頭的味道。

        于是在教士傳播天主教的過程中，就出現(xiàn)了黑圣母的神話，瓜達盧佩就是圣母瑪利亞的稱號。那是在西班牙入侵十年后，即1532年12月9日，一個叫胡安迭戈的土著年輕人去墨西哥城大教堂做彌撒，在經過墨西哥城北部特佩亞克山時，聽見一個柔和的聲音喊著胡安，原來山頂上有一個黑褐色皮膚的圣母，渾身放光。嗯，人家印第安人的皮膚也是黑褐色的。圣母告訴胡安，她就是圣母瑪利亞，讓他告訴墨西哥城的大主教，要在這座山上建一座圣堂，廣施神恩！大主教不信胡安所說，胡安就又跑回去到見到圣母的地方祈禱，于是圣母顯像，讓胡安這個隆冬季節(jié)到山頂采花。胡安到了山頂，看見滿山頂?shù)拿倒迮啪挖s緊用衣襟采了一大堆帶著露珠的玫瑰。圣母看了看，說我的孩子，給主教送去吧，這就是我的證據(jù)，孩子，你在見到主教前不要打開衣襟。大主教打開胡安的衣襟，不但看到綻放的玫瑰，還看到了胡安衣襟上的圣母像。圣母說，上帝已經接受了所有的印第安人為他的子民。大主教后來就在這圣母顯靈的地方修建了瓜達盧佩大教堂。神話傳開，全墨西哥的印第安人都找到了新的精神歸宿，以后的二十年間有九百萬的印第安人改信的天主教。以后每年的12月12日就成了瓜達盧佩圣母節(jié)，尊瓜達盧佩為墨西哥人的保護神。1895年，墨西哥的天主教還給圣母加冕，信徒們捐獻給圣母打造了一個十五公斤重的金銀珠寶鑲嵌的皇冠。這里不但是墨西哥人的圣地，也是天主教的世界三大圣地之一，墨西哥人一生至少要到這里來朝拜一次。此后在墨西哥大大小小的教堂里，都供奉著黑圣母瓜達盧佩的神像。現(xiàn)在墨西哥人百分之九十以上都信奉天主教，宗教的力量真的說不清??！

        片片多，故事多，還是分上下兩篇。

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16  這個雕塑就應該是胡安和主教啦，玫瑰之上，圣母顯靈                                                        -

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33    瓜達盧佩圣母的雕像                                                                                                             -

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